Login

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

by William Finnegan

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

by William Finnegan

At the heart of 'Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life' lies William Finnegan's riveting narrative of a life entwined with the thrill of surfing. Beginning as a child along the coasts of California and Hawaii, Finnegan's passion for the waves evolves into a globe-trotting quest for adventure amidst the world's most formidable surf. The memoir unveils the transformative power of surfing, transcending mere sport into a profound meditation on friendship, culture, and self-discovery. Through his adventures—navigating the perils and camaraderie of the waves, exploring exotic locales, grappling with societal upheaval, and enduring personal trials—Finnegan emerges as both an accomplished journalist and an unlikely anthropologist. His journey through surfing lays bare an odyssey of mastery over the elusive art of the wave, offering readers an intimate glide through the pristine barrels of an untamed oceanic frontier.

  • Memoirs
  • Travel
  • Non-Fiction
  • Adventure
  • Surfing
  • Self-Discovery
  • Anthropology
  • Transformation
0 ratings0 reviews
0 ratings0 reviews

A Field Guide to Getting Lost

by Rebecca Solnit

To a Mountain in Tibet

by Colin Thubron

Born to Run

by Christopher McDougall

A Walk in the Woods

by Bill Bryson

Skyfaring: A Journey with a Pilot

by Mark Vanhoenacker

Horizon

by Barry Lopez

Notes from a Small Island

by Bill Bryson

Under the Tuscan Sun

by Frances Mayes

Moby-Duck

by Donovan Hohn

Can't Hurt Me

by David Goggins

Hamlet: Globe to Globe

by Dominic Dromgoole

Owls of the Eastern Ice

by Jonathan C. Slaght

The Trail

by Ethan Gallogly

Eat Pray Love

by Elizabeth Gilbert

Pageboy

by Elliot Page

The Happiness Project

by Gretchen Rubin

The Wave

by Susan Casey

The Faraway Nearby

by Rebecca Solnit

The Half Known Life

by Pico Iyer

When in French

by Lauren Collins

The Folded Clock

by Heidi Julavits

Spare

by Prince Harry, The Duke of Sussex

Into the Wild

by Jon Krakauer

Not that Kind of Girl

by Lena Dunham

Know My Name

by Chanel Miller

The Light We Carry

by Michelle Obama

Paris: The Memoir

by Paris Hilton

Sh*t My Dad Says

by Justin Halpern

Uncommon Carriers

by John McPhee

Notes on a Nervous Planet

by Matt Haig